The main focus of our activities today was to explore the modern culture of Athens through the perspective of its art. Our first stop was to the National Museum of Contemporary Art (EMST), where we had a tour of the museum’s permanent exhibits and some free time to explore the art work on our own. After a quick lunch break, we dove deeper into neighborhoods of Athens on our street art tour where we discussed graffiti, murals, and architecture in order to better understand what the Athenians are passionate about. For all of today, we were guided by our amazing tour guide Marina. Marina is a local who has always lived in Athens, and she gave us some incredible insights into the current culture and political climate of Greece.
Our trip to the modern art museum was our first tour to a place that represented the more modern side of Greek culture. Marina led us through two of the museum’s permanent exhibits: an exhibit dedicated to the renowned sculptor Theodorus and a collection of women’s art. Theodorus created most of his work in the 60s and 70s, and began to use audiovisual techniques to enhance the endurance of his work. The women’s exhibit featured many striking pieces including sculptures representing the expectation of women to be nurturing, a piece involving the hair of women, and olive trees. There was also a new exhibit about animal rights, including a commentary on the brutality of the race horse industry and the violence of mass producing animal products.
Many of the exhibits in the museum commented on violence and oppression, and raised questions about how we turn a blind eye to the inherent violence our social structures often require. The museum was an incredibly thought-provoking space. As someone passionate about art, I (David) was moved by the way each artist used their medium to challenge systems and expose truths. From portrayals of police brutality and toxic social hierarchies to pieces centering women’s oppression, abuse, sex trafficking and the natural world’s voice, each work felt like a loud, visual conversation. One installation that stayed with me centered on animals and their place in the ecosystem, and it reminded me of how all life is interconnected, even in an urban space like Athens. The EMST reminded me how essential it is for artists to be surrounded by creativity. Being in that space, with those powerful stories and the presence of fellow creatives felt much needed for my soul.
Afterward, we had some free time to explore the city for a relaxed lunch (David’s gyro was bomb), and then we got right back into art but this time on the neighborhood streets. Marina guided us through a street art tour of Exarcheia, a neighborhood known for its countercultural energy and resistance to the mainstream gentrification that is overpowering many neighborhoods in Athens. While here, this resistance caused us to contemplate who gets to decide what a neighborhood looks like and why. Exarcheia had such a raw, artistic spirit it felt like a mix between a protest and a canvas. Murals weren’t just art, they were bold political statements. There were many powerful murals dedicated to the homeless, the poor, and the victims of systemic violence. These works of street art may not be the most immediately aesthetically pleasing, but they carry the powerful message of voices that refuse to be silenced. While Athenians struggle with many hardships, particularly after their extended financial crisis in the early 2010’s, many of them continue to speak up for a future that they believe in, which is inspiring.
One mural that was particularly empowering was dedicated to a boy named Alexandros Grigoropous who was shot and killed by a police officer in 2008 at the very street we visited. His death was unwarranted and unjustified, and speaks to a larger problem of police brutality the people of Exarcheia have faced during their resistance to gentrification. Marina explained how his death became a catalyst for protests, unity among marginalized groups, and ultimately, public artwork and a planted tree in his memory. It sparked deep reflection for many of us. In Greece, a tragedy like this led to collective action, memorialization, and visible unity. In contrast, back home in the U.S., police brutality and wrongful deaths, especially of marginalized people, happen so frequently that we’ve almost become numb. That comparison was hard to sit with. We ask you to sit with that as well.
Kate: As someone who has not spent a lot of time with visual art, I think the most important thing I was reminded of today was the power of art. When I first walked into the museum or looked at the graffiti, I was unsure what I was looking at. There were wires and wooden bats everywhere, and I can’t honestly say that I found it beautiful. However, throughout the day, I was increasingly moved by the truths that the art revealed. I started to rethink my consumption habits as a lifelong meat eater and was truly moved by the mural of Alexandros. Art is incredibly powerful, and today art led us closer to the truth of the complexity of modern day Greece.
David: My biggest takeaway from the day is that we are all meant to be mediums of expression for the Divine. Find out whatever that looks like for yourself and get to it. Whenever that is, is okay. We’re all on our own separate journey. Don’t think of art as only visual art. We’re all creators by nature, anything you create is in its own way art.
Signing off!
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