A Final Reflection

As we begin to write this final blog entry, we (John and Rolyn) are sitting in an out-of-the-way alcove in the Athens airport, early in the morning, waiting for our return flight home.  (Our co-leader, Jonny, was fortunate to have a later flight home to Northern Ireland.)  We are surrounded by tired, but happy voices of our students --- talking and laughing with one another, remembering special things, large and small, from our previous few weeks.  These sounds make us feel very fulfilled.

Three weeks ago, we gathered at Furman for two days of pre-trip conversations and content.  It was a time of expectation and excitement, and those days were the first steps in what has been a remarkable journey.

It is difficult to summarize an experience that has been so full of varied experiences and opportunities.  The students have done a wonderful job with the daily blog posts, and we hope that you have been able to follow along in that way.  If not, take some time and go back and read some of their great work.

The manager of our hotel in Athens, without knowing it, provided the theme for this reflection on our experiences.  As we were in Athens for nearly a week, we had many chances to talk with him, and he had many chances to observe our students.  On one of our last days there, he came to me (John) and said, “You know, you really are quite privileged.” My mind first went to the negative connotation of that term, and I braced myself for what might follow.  I’ll finish this story a bit later (spoiler alert: it wasn’t negative), but first let me use the term “privilege” to describe a few aspects of our trip.

It was our privilege to witness (and visit with) some people who were established masters of their craft.

• An orthodox priest of 45 years, who has painted icons for 50 years.  One of his paintings hangs in the Vatican.
• A third-generation potter, whose family has continued making beautiful work even as many of the processes for doing so have evolved.
• A world-renowned journalist, who covers modern day issues in Greece and the Middle East, talking directly with our class about the history and status of the immigration crisis.
• A writer/philosopher, providing insights for the class into the key components of philosophy, while sitting in the Ancient Agora --- the very place where Socrates did the same.

It was our privilege to interact with masters of lesser-known crafts.

• A baker, who worked magic with a ball of phyllo dough and before our eyes turned it into a paper-thin sheet that covered an eight-foot by eight-foot square tabletop.
• A tour guide, who had a wonderful combination of energy, personality, and passion, and who helped us get most out of each experience.
• A chef who used her gifts with food and with hospitality to teach us all how to prepare what ended up being one of our favorite overall meals on the trip.
• Two bus drivers who not only took care of their passengers but also exhibited remarkable precision in driving big vehicles in small places, all in order to make the experiences better for us.

It was our privilege to hear from people who found purpose and calling in areas that were not originally their first choices.

• A tour guide in Athens, who found her way into her role by following a path that involved reflecting on things that she enjoyed most.
• An architect, who has now found purpose in caring for 2000-year-old olive trees.
• A farmer, who now operates a sanctuary for donkeys, providing care and a safe space for a forgotten, vulnerable population.

It was our privilege to hear stories of people we met, and to hear about their perspectives on the ideas of purpose and calling.

Our guide in Athens and Kalambaka was Irini.  One evening, she asked us to clarify what our class was all about. She had been trying to figure it out by observing us. We explained that the topic was “Know Thyself” and that it related to work we do in the Cothran Center back at Furman --- helping students consider questions that lead toward intentional, reflective lives of meaning and purpose.  She looked at us, with a look that was close to disbelief, and said “this is so different from anything I have heard of, and certainly different from the typical perceptions of Americans.”

We asked Irini to share her story with the class, and what she thinks purpose/calling/meaning represent in Greece.  She said that she and our bus driver, Stavros, had just been talking about this --- as they both had been doing these jobs for many years and retirement is getting closer.  I think they both thought “what has all of this been for?” in a way.  She then remarked on the relationships that they both had formed with the people with whom they have worked, many of whom were repeat visitors.  They realized that these relationships provided much fulfillment/meaning for them.  “It is all about the people,” she said.

It was our privilege to see a wide variety of awe-inspiring things.

One of the ways to learn more about yourself is to pay attention to things that strike you as powerful or meaningful.  We’ve already talked about watching masters at work, and that is certainly one way to be moved.  Other ways include seeing things that go back hundreds of years, thousands of years, and in some cases tens of thousands of years.  The Parthenon, the monasteries in the sky of Meteora, beautiful expansive scenery, beautiful introspective conversations, ancient and modern art --- the list goes on and on.  History, interpretations of history, nature, art, economics, immigration, cooking, pottery, hospitality, group dynamics, culture, caring for vulnerable groups, surprising coincidences that reminded us how small our world actually is --- all of these things, and more, provided opportunities (“hooks”) for the students to notice and perhaps sense a pull.

For the leaders, it was our privilege to read and listen to the thoughts of the students through their journals and conversations.

Students reflected in journals each day throughout the trip, often using them to respond to readings and prompts that were given.  After each journaling session, there would be time for discussion.  Those times were rich, and the group grew (together and individually) by hearing from one another.  Twice during the trip, the leaders collected the journals and read each one (the students knew ahead of time that this would be done).  What a remarkable privilege it was for us to read these.  We were amazed by the insight, the vulnerability, and the growth that were evident in these treasures.  This was a special, introspective group of students.

“Privileged?”

This takes me back now to the hotel manager’s comment about us being “privileged.”  For several days, he had seen our students engaging in thoughtful discussions (large and small group) and writing in journals --- doing things that he was not used to seeing in visiting school groups.  When I asked him what he meant when he said, “You know, you are quite privileged,” he went straight to the students.  “You are very fortunate to work with a group of students like these students, and to spend time talking about the things you are talking about.  I’ve been telling my wife about your group.  This is not typical.”  He was impressed not only by the graciousness of the students themselves, but also by the energy they gave to the task of understanding themselves.

We were impressed as well, of course.  If you trusted us with one of your loved ones on this trip, we thank you.  Each student on the trip made it better, and we know you would be proud of the contributions of each one.

When a class is called “Know Thyself,” it is natural for students to enter the course with expectations of epiphanies --- answers to questions about their lives.  This was the case with our class, we think, and that is completely understandable.  What we have learned on our journey together, however, is that knowing thyself isn’t necessarily about finding final answers to questions.  Rather, it is a lifelong exercise in intentional reflection, where “answers” can take many forms.  There may have been some answers/epiphanies among the students on the trip, but we hope one thing is true for everyone:  they all have developed the ability to continue asking questions to help them find their own evolving purposes and callings.

We’ll conclude by stating again a comment from our tour guide, Irini.  “It’s all about the people,” she said.  What a privilege it has been to get to know and learn from the wonderful people in this class.  The relationships formed here will continue to provide fulfillment and meaning for years to come.

John, Jonny, and Rolyn

Day 20 - Old City of Chania and Botanical Gardens!

Hey everyone! Tate and Cambelle here for our very last blog!

Us above the Botanical Gardens

We had an exciting day with lots of walking! First, we walked to Old Chania. Our guide, Andreas, stopped us at the Venetian wall surrounded by a moat and explained that Old Chania was originally a Minoan settlement. During the Byzantine Empire, the area was strongly fortified in order to prevent future invasions. When the Venetians took over, Leonardo Da Vinci designed a new type of fortification wall, one that could deflect cannonballs away from the fortress. Andreas also pointed out the bastions that were used to cross-fire at enemies during the Cretan War against the Ottomans. This fortification helped the Venetians resist an Ottoman invasion for 24 years, which was the second longest resistance in history, after Heraklion. Now, the old moat has been transformed into a beautiful walking/running path that goes through the ruins.

Moving deeper into Old Chania, we explored the residential are of Kasteli where we stopped to look at an excavation site on Kastelli Hill. This site had previously been a Minoan settlement of houses and narrow streets but unfortunately was destroyed in a fire, as were many of the excavations we visited today. We could tell that the site we were visiting was an excavated house that had belonged to a wealthier individual due to the space for double doors as opposed to single doors, and poorer households could not afford double doors. 

Language Lesson! The Greek language does not contain the letter “C”, so Χανιά is the Greek spelling, and it is pronounced “Han-ia”.

Andreas took us past a Cretan knife store, where he explained the significance of knives in Chanian culture. Historically, knives were used as weapons meant for enemies, but in the current culture, they are given as gifts to close friends after they are inscribed with Cretan poems, or mantinades.

During the tour, we saw some street art directed a tourists depicting a horse kicking them, as well as anti-tourism language. When asked about this, Andreas told us about the tension with tourists in Chania, and how so many homes and apartments have been converted to airbnb’s, displacing long-time residents of the city. Andreas recounted an event that happened just this past Friday (5/30). A Chanian teacher had her water and electricity shut off after a tense standoff with her landlord, who was evicting her in order to start - you guessed it - an Airbnb for tourists. She had her door removed, and was forced to leave - being separated from her job and being relocated to Athens overnight. This displacement upsets the Cretian people, who have created their culture here and love it - now, the culture is forced to assimilate with many others. We spent some time thinking about this assimilation, and how we as people are given lots of other ideas from inputs outside of our own - but the true way to know ourselves is to act in the nature one is predisposed to. That is, to simply be thyself. 

Andreas also told us about the different types of tourists - short-stay and long-stay. Short-stay tourists, whom arrive for just half a day via cruise ship, plane, or bus, are the main issue. The clog the streets, unaware of the cultural customs, creating chaos and falling for tourist traps, some being inhumane (like horse carriages, which we saw a great deal of today). These short-stay tourists do not develop any idea of the place they’re in, what the people are like, and worst of all - they spend a great deal less than long-stay, who tend to spend closer to a week in the city, staying in a local hotel (or Airbnb), eating at local restaurants, and spending on tourism goods and services, adding a great deal of value to the Cretan economy. This is important to reflect on - since we as Americans are very much caught up in our own lives, it feels important to realise that our actions - like travel, have externalities beyond our understanding, and we need to be very cognisant of where our money goes and who we are supporting.

While with Andreas, I (Tate) spent some time chatting with him about his time as a tour guide.Turns out we had quite the guide! Andreas has been working for his entire life - almost 40 years, and plans to keep working until his daughter graduates University in 12 years. Andreas served as the president of the board of the Panhellenic Federation of Tour Guides for five years, only stepping down when his daughter was born. He led the federation to strike several times, rallying for raises wages and better rights and privileges. He was incredibly successful in this endeavor. I asked him on his opinion on tourists, and he described that he doesn’t think it’s the tourists fault - it’s the Greek government who looks the other way, no matter which party is in charge, since they assume more tourism means higher GDP. Without regard for the local culture, human rights, and general good fellowship, this has sunken the tourist industry, as Chania, and many other Greek cities, continue to become less and less friendly. (that said, we have had a great experience in Crete, meeting exceptional people and being given fantastic service.)

Andreas finished the day off by taking us to a botanical garden, absolutely full of flora. We saw and smelled a plethora of herbs, fruit trees, and all kinds of flowers and vines from several places. Below is a 3D map for reference. Since Crete is positioned in the Mediterranean sea between Greece, Asia, and Africa, the climate is fit for a great deal of flora. We learned about many plants - some fun facts being: Many plants are hermaphroditic, meaning that they can change their gender at whim, helping their species reproduce. Silkworms, the jewel of Asia, feed on Mulberry leaves, which grow widely in Greece. 94% of Greece’s avocados come from Crete.

We also got to see and hear a ton of birds (which Tate loved!) 

It was super lucky to have the chance to meet Andreas. According to him, we were meant to have another guide, but they called in sick. Andreas ended up being perfect, with extensive knowledge on the flora of Crete, and a great understanding of the culture and its many unique aspects.

From Cambelle: Seeing how the locals view tourists was really interesting. I had heard about the stereotypes of Americans that people of different countries held, and I did my best not to play into them, and today really helped me to understand that I care a lot about how my actions affect others. Even if it is just in a small way, I always consider how my actions may make others feel or react and I do my best to avoid upsetting or inconveniencing anyone if I can.

From Tate: The time I spent speaking with Andreas was very enriching. I care deeply about being open-minded to other cultures, and through that, coming to understand my own nature better. Knowing yourself also means knowing who you are not, and I find it easiest to find that with dramatically different cultures. That also means finding what you believe in. Today, while listening to Andreas, I had an epiphany about a possible new research topic. Economic impacts of hospitality on European countries as compared to America. Further, owning an Airbnb has been a dream of mine for a while, and now I am rethinking it, and doing research into how to own and operate hospitality companies without a negative effect on local populations. Since this is our last blog, I want to share a small amount of what I think my calling is. I have a natural talent and drive to creatively solve people-based problems, and have found comfort in helping others learn about the things I know to be beneficial to my life. I know that I belong in a place that utilizes hospitality in a moral way, and where I can use my creativity to help others create both tangible things, such as wealth, a family, and materials, and intangibles, like memories, satisfaction, and joy.

Thank you all so much for following along these past couple of weeks! We had such a fantastic time on this trip, and we really hope you enjoyed following along!

Chow, and

Θα είμαστε σε επικοινωνία!

We will keep in touch!

Day 18 - Pottery Workshop and Olive Farm

Hey guys, it's Ramiah and Christina! We had a fun-filled travel day to Chania with a couple of cool stops along the way. First, we packed up our stuff, loaded the bus, and left Heraklion. We drove to a town called Margarites, known for its pottery and ceramics. The group met up with the owner of a pottery shop, where she demonstrated how to make a traditional vase using a pottery wheel. She explained how they acquire the clay from local areas and talked about the techniques and stages that make their pieces unique to Crete. She taught us about the stages of making large vases, as well as the process of firing the clay and how that has changed over time. The potter showed us the old firing kiln built by her grandfather that was fueled by wood, and explained how the very high temperature dries the clay, changes its color, and hardens the pottery. Before the use of electricity, the potters used a wheel where one person had to spin it from the bottom while another person molded the clay, which we thought was very impressive. At the end of the tour, she told us about how her grandfather and father were also potters and taught her the craft. She has now been doing it for over 40 years, and her own children also make pieces for their business. They sell internationally and locally from their shop in Margarites, and seem very happy with what they do, especially as a family. 

After we got to walk around the town and look at the ceramic creations in the other little shops, we got back on the bus to move on to the Cretanthos Olive Park. We were greeted by the owner, George, and his wife, and they gave us some background and information about the farm. George pointed out a couple of trees that were hundreds or thousands of years old. The oldest was 2,800 years old! Next, we walked around the olive park and learned about the history and artifacts on display. After we took some time to explore, we got to sit down together and try some of their olives and bread with olive oil. Next, George taught us a little about each olive oil that they make and sell. He explained the tastes, smells, and sensations that come along with each of them. Afterwards, we got to buy the ones we like for ourselves and as gifts for friends and family. I (Christina) bought some olives from the 2,800 year old tree, which is so cool, and I can't wait to try them. I (Ramiah) bought two bottles of olive oil to share with my family in friends, as well as olives from the oldest tree! I can't wait to cook with the people I love and have the memory of getting these products from Crete! 

After the olive farm, we took the bus to a town called Rethymno, where we saw a demonstration of how to make phyllo dough for baklava, and got to try some ourselves. We then walked around the town and explored the streets and shops. After our short stop, we made our way to the hotel in Chania where we'll be for our last couple of days in Greece. 

Christina - after our activities today, I thought a lot about vocation and calling. It is interesting to compare the lady who showed us her pottery making and the owners of the olive farm. The potter followed in the footsteps of her grandfather and great grandfather by learning the process of pottery making. In contrast, George went to school to learn about olives and the best way to grow and produce them for his and his wife’s farm. Even though one kept the tradition of her family, while the other sought out his own dream, both seemed very content and fulfilled with their lifestyle. It has made me think about finding my vocation and how it can be exactly what I expect it to be or something completely different that finds me through life experiences. 

Ramiah - Today was overall a great day, and it got me thinking a lot about vocation, family, and fulfillment. Visiting the pottery workshop and how the owner followed in her families' footsteps by using their craft for years to make these beautiful pieces and now her own children work with her and do the same thing shows the calling and bond that they all share which is beautiful and they seemed so proud of all the hardwork and dedication that it continues to take. George and his amazing family started a journey of their own, and it was something different from their families. George went to school to be an architect and then gained knowledge and a love for olive oil production and harvest, and invested time into something that became a passion. Both of these stories are so different but inspiring on how following what you feel called to do, even if it's the same or different from your family, can still be something of your own. 

Thanks for reading! - Ramiah and Christina

Day 17 - Donkeys and the Beach

        Hey y'all Josie and Joey here! Today was super tender in a way we didn’t see coming. We started our Friday with a 45-minute bus ride to Agia Marina Donkey Sanctuary, a tucked away refuge where donkeys go to retire after years of physical labor. Now, they receive something they couldn’t before: rest, security, and affection. This work is highly empathetic. Just because these animals aren’t deemed “valuable” anymore by traditional standards, they are still treated with respect. The group was highly impressed with the empathy of the owners.  

Agia Marina Donkey Rescue began over 25 years ago and started with a sweeping act of compassion. Owners Barbara and Fanis were asked to rescue a donkey from a local farmer who was unable to care for it. They built her a small stable within their olive farm and named her Olive. They quickly realized donkeys are social animals and will get depressed without a buddy. They soon took in Peligrino, another donkey to keep Olive company. Peligrino’s owner was sad to see him go, but ill and unable to provide adequate care. He knew by sending Peligrino to Agia Marina he would be well-cared for. These acts of kindness marked the beginning of their ongoing commitment to rescuing and caring for animals in need.  

Over the years, their passion has evolved. Despite limited access to veterinary care on Crete, they educated themselves and relied on Fanis’s experience growing up with donkeys and mules. The sanctuary does not receive government funding, but with help from organizations like CARAT UK and Greek Animal Welfare, they have continued their mission in providing a safe haven for donkeys to grow old and “retire.” 

 

        Now you may be wondering why in the world amongst the monasteries, temples, and museums we then went to a donkey sanctuary of all places. Well, that itself was kind of the point, to look at another way that people have found their purpose in the small more niche aspects of life. Specifically looking after a portion of the world that the local population didn’t value. Once the donkeys grow old, or once their owners do, it is seen as too expensive or unnecessary to take care of the donkeys anymore. So, they would usually be left behind because they have no value as determined by most, but not the owners of the sanctuary. By going here, we were trying to focus on the love, care, and value the owners have for these creatures. 

 

        At the sanctuary we were met by the aforementioned donkeys, but also chickens, guinea fowl, ducks, sheep, and some bossy geese. The donkeys were walking around grazing, and we were invited to go up and brush them as their winter coat was still shedding. As we walked around, we were surprised to be met with the donkeys coming up to us with a gentle nudge. As we explored, we learned from the owners about various stories of how the donkeys got to the sanctuary: being dropped off, born in the sanctuary, abandoned in a hotel, and even left after being in a movie. We were all taken aback by the work of the owners and the gentleness of the large animals. Many of us found that there was an unspoken mutual trust between us and the donkeys, that they trusted us to be there and be present with them and us them. It was an amazing experience that will definitely stick with many of us once the trip is done. 

 

        After we finished with our new donkey friends we then went to the beach of Matala, a beautiful combination of the mountains and ocean. There some of us shopped, swam, explored the city, or enjoyed the crashing waves of the beach. From there we had lunch and then spread out to reflect on the day. We focused by ourselves and in groups on how calling can relate to the small and quiet aspects of life that no one sees, how we define worth, and what it means to find something valuable. 

 

Josie: One moment that stood out to me was when I looked down at a scrape on my forearm, a sanctuary worker immediately pulled me to the side and into the private garden. There, he ripped off several leaves of his aloe plant and encouraged me to rub it on my cut and all over my sunburn. When he noticed David’s curiosity, he didn’t hesitate, he went back and grabbed fresh aloe for him too. It was a small gesture, but it stayed with me. No exaggerated kindness, no expectation of anything in return, just instinctive care. In that moment, I was reminded of rare it is to be seen as a human being, not a customer or tourist. This kind of giving, without and agenda, is what genuine altruism looks like. In so many environments I’ve lived in, kindness is tied to something greater: popularity points, moral high ground, or a mutual exchange. The care I received today was about shared existence and empathy. How magnificent and rare it is to be humans living on Earth at the same time. This was a huge reminder to me that sometimes kindness isn’t about sweeping gestures, but instead, the little things that occur when no one is watching.  

Joey: I was taken aback by the gentleness and spirit of the donkeys themselves. I had a donkey by the name of Ariadni come up to me and calmly nudged my leg, wanting me to pet her. I then stood there brushing her for 15-20 minutes and she stood there breathing deeply. There was seemingly an agreement between the two of us; I was here and she was here. No fanfare, no fuss, no previous meeting, we just shared the space together. I never had experienced that sense of calm with an animal that large and it was amazing to see the gentleness she gave to me as I was trying to give the same back. It was an unusual encounter for sure, but one I will hold onto fondly for a long time as a moment of being present.

Thanks for reading, see y'all soon! - Josie and Joey